- By Paul Kerr
- In Electricians in Charlotte NC, Handyman Services In Charlotte NC, Home Repairs and Remodeling
How bout tile installation?? Heres some tips.
Step 1: Mix the Thinset
First, mix up approximately two gallons of thinset to cover the floor for the backer boards. The consistency should be like creamy peanut butter.
– Mix only as much thinset mortar as can be used in an hour; otherwise it will dry out and will not be as effective.
– Set the tiles on the floor to grid out the space and to make sure there is enough to cover the area and also to see what cuts will need to be made. This is especially important for a specific pattern design.
– Make sure to buy enough tiles to cover your entire project, accounting for 1/2 pieces, scrap pieces or replacement pieces. Often tiles from a different stock look slightly different.
– Always wear eye protection when working with power tools.
– Wear a facemask when pouring dry thinset.
– Before ripping out older flooring have it tested for asbestos. Asbestos is dangerous when it is disturbed and becomes airborne, but abatement, or professional asbestos removal, can be expensive. If asbestos is suspected, covering the flooring with backer board, thinset mix and tile is an effective way to stop the asbestos from affecting your home and your family’s health.
Step 2: Apply the Thinset Onto the Linoleum
Apply a good amount of thinset onto the linoleum with a trowel. With the notched trowel, smooth the thinset over the floor, holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle. Only spread enough thinset to cover an area the size of the backer board. Continue this process throughout the project.
Step 3: Install the Backer Board
When the entire section of the floor is covered, set the backer board down slowly (Image 1). Make any slight corrections and adjustments while the thinset is wet.
When the board is in the right place, begin screwing the backer board into the flooring below (Image 2). The backer board has a grid to follow so the screws go in the correct location.
Repeat this step until the floor is covered entirely with backer board and is completely bolted down (Image 3).
Step 4: Lay the Tile
Next, plot out a tile pattern. Using spacers as a guide, lay one row of tiles all the way across the floor and another row of tiles perpendicular to the first row (Image 1). Laying out the tile before setting it provides a good estimate of how much tile is needed and where you might run into problems along the floor.
With a good idea where the tile will fall, lift the first tiles and spread thinset with the notched trowel, keeping the trowel at a 45-degree angle (Image 2). Lay the tiles down carefully and make any corrections and adjustments while the thinset is wet. Insert spacers to ensure each tile has the same size gap (Image 3).
Keep a wet rag and bucket of water nearby to clean up the thinset as you work. It is very difficult to clean after it dries. After tiling, finish the floor with grout.
Step 1: Demolition
Place a drop cloth on the floor around the hearth to catch falling soot and debris. Locate and loosen the brackets that secure the old fireplace doors. Remove the fasteners and lift the old fireplace door unit out. If replacing the grate, remove that now too.
Step 2: Mark for Mantel
Mantles are usually 60 inches off the floor. With a tape measure, mark a line 60″ above the floor. If there is a raised hearth, measure that separately to ensure an accurate distance. Measure the width of the fireplace to locate and mark the center point.
Step 3: Attach Mantel Brace
Position the 2×4 mantel brace on the line at the center point. Use a level to make sure the brace is perfectly horizontal. Mark and predrill holes to line up with the mortar joints. Attach the brace to the wall using 10-inch masonry screws.
Step 4: Attach Breastplate
Cut a breastplate from a 1×12 board to fit around the brace. Notch out a 3-1/3″ opening on the breastplate to accept the mantel brace. Predrill holes near the top of the breastplate and then fasten it to the wall with 2-inch masonry screws.
Step 5: Attach Mantel
With 45-degree miter cuts at all corners, place and attach the crown molding mantel to the brace and breastplate with 1-inch finish nails (Image 1).
Cut a bottom cap to fit tight to the bottom of the crown molding to give the mantle a solid appearance. Secure with 1-inch finish nails (Image 2).
Step 6: Trim and Finish Mantel
Add any additional decorative trim to the fireplace mantel. Putty all nail holes, allow to dry and sand smooth. Prime and paint the fireplace mantle.